Speaker Cone Tore At Edge Repair?

1. Hello folks...simply purchased a Celestion G12M greenback with a 53 H1777 cone. The cone has a small hole in it just below the doped surround. It appears to exist from a small machine screw, considering the frame has a small tapped pigsty in it but behind the hole. Anyway, most of the paper is still at that place merely I can see light through it. Whatsoever suggestions for repairing the cone hole other than re-coning?

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2. Here are a few tips- you may exist able to get something out of 'em. Expert luck!

   Repairing a Ripped Speaker Cone

   If you accept a pair of speakers that have a rip or small tear in the paper cloth of the speaker cone you lot can repair it with a piddling watered down Elmer's gum and some tissue paper:

   • Cut or tear the tissue newspaper so into pieces a little bigger than the tear
   • Soak the pieces in the diluted Elmer's gum
   • Employ pieces, i at a time, over the tear
   • Let each patch become tacky then, utilise a second layer
   • Repeat until yous have applied three to 5 layers on each side of the cone
   • Let dry overnight

   You may have to play with the glue mixture and application to become it right, then experiment on a dead speaker, if possible, before going prime time.

   * This play tricks only works on woofers with paper cones, but tin save a pair of speakers.

   (From http://speakers.lifetips.com/cat/61245/speaker-repair/index.html))

   Speaker Cone Repairs

   Most speakers demand minor repair or aligning. I always attempt to repair a speaker before resorting to re-coning. You can repair big tears and holes in the cone too as loose cone edges. An old speaker rebuilder once told me to mucilage torn speaker cones with RTV (silicone caulk). I idea this was messy and "unprofessional" , simply I found that it works great! RTV looks really bad, but unlike other glues, it remains flexible. Gluing a speaker cone with a rigid mucilage often only results in some other rip since the glue will not flex with the rest of the cone.

   Speaker cones frequently come loose at the outside edge where the cone meets the frame. Loose cones edges crusade loud rattles in the speaker. The chief difficulty in re-gluing the cone edge lies in getting the glue in the right spot. I utilise a syringe and needle to go glue nether the border of the cone. Woodworkers mucilage works well for this since it flows easily and cleans up with water. Other suitable glues include super glue, Duco cement, or RTV.

   Many speakers utilise a spider to middle the voice whorl in the magnet. Frequently, the speaker voice roll is rubbing the magnet, causing buzzing and baloney in the speaker. Sometimes, you lot can cure this by adjusting the spider. Carefully loosen the bolts holding the spider in place, and move the spider to a position where the vox coil does not rub the magnet. Retighten the bolts to finish the job. This may accept quite a few tries to complete a successful repair. The speaker spider is located in the heart of the speaker where the roll meets the cone, or on the outside of the voice ringlet where it meets the cone. Spiders on the inside of the cone employ a single bolt fastened to the magnet, spiders on the outside of the cone spike to the speaker frame with several bolts. Newer speakers (1940's and later on) employ a combination spider/dust cover on the outside of the voice roll. These covers are glued to the speaker frame. When the gum ages and fails, the loose comprehend rattles and buzzes. Re-glue these using the same techniques as for re-gluing the cone edge. Make sure the voice coil is centered before gluing.

   (from http://world wide web.stanwatkins.com/chassis.htm#9. Speaker Cone Repairs).

   Promise this helps, and expert luck with your good find!

3. Simply a thought.
   As far as newspaper patches are concerned, a slice of java filter might exist much more durable than tissue.

   Russ

4. Drop of Pliobond, the liquid stuff, or Indian Head gasket shellac volition do the job as well as other suggestions from this group. I would apply a light, flexable adhesive, like Pliobond, even so. JMHO.

5. Agreed. A slice of coffee filter and some Elmers will work fine IME. - Marker

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6. Another suggestion I've seen -- but not tried -- is to utilise a used dryer softener sheet instead of tissue. It is pretty tough looking stuff, it resembles the 'silkspan' we used to cover model airplanes when I was a child. I think I might soak it in water to get all the 'softener' stuff out before I used information technology, though.

7. I used white-glue/h2o mix and cut a modest piece of compensation, the quicker picker upper

   worked for the environs on my AR9 woofer Rick. :thmbsp:

8. I try and do all my repairs from the back if possible. I volition starting time button the ripped part or attached fragments to the back to expose their edges. Using a toothpick, I butter the edges with "superglue" cyanoacrylate and push the pieces back forward into their right orientation and 3et dry. That is usually enough if the pigsty or tear is small.

   If need be, such as when the defect covers a large area, I will use a capitalist such equally thin silk, muslin, or cotton held in place with white glue such equally Elmers. I'd never though about coffee filter material though and think that is a better cloth than fabric. If it happens to exist a blackness cone, I'll fog it with some flat black paint. I've repaired a couple over the years where y'all could not easily discern the tragedy they once showed.

9. 

   wank Moks by pop demand

   I've washed a few cone pigsty patches - happens when y'all're bankrupt. I gauge in the 70s the deal was tissue paper and clear nail shine. Merely what I've found (and Delihaus, Mark and Russ are dead on it) is java filter and Aileen's Tacky Gum - cut with water to sense of taste. Only better than the standard Mr. Java fluted kind, get the Melita cone-shaped kind that is kind of dimpled. Couple of other hints:
   -Do it from the back, especially if the flap is notwithstanding there.
   -Push the flap back into place, and hold it there with blue masking tape (yeah, the blueish is important). Information technology'll hold it in place, just won't leave a residuum and won't have newspaper with it.
   -I cut a piece (just 1) simply a fiddling larger than the injury.
   -I cut the Aileen's with h2o at most 3pts glue to 1 pt water, then soak the patch in it for a 2nd, then lay it on.
   -I'll ordinarily make sure it's saturated and bonding, applying a lilliputian more of the glue mixture with a hobby paintbrush (the tiny water color type) and "painting" well-nigh .25 inch out onto the cone.

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10. For flexible glue the silicone sealer or RTV will work fine and is availabel at Hard disk drive or any hardware store. The Piliobond is as well a cracking flexible glue that can be obtained at ACE hardware. Information technology used to exist called " anything to anything mucilage" and is great.

    The Elmers volition work too but is not equally flexible as the ii higher up and may tear equally mentioned above.

    Charlie

11. Several posts suggested Elmers. I Do NOT recomend Elmers for anything on a speaker. It dries brittle.

    PE surroundings glue, or Alieene'south tacky Glue dry to the aforementioned flexible consitsncy. I have tested a number of differnt glues, (Elmers, woods of a couple of types, PE and Aleenes) and the Aleenes' and PE apear to be the same or nearly so.

    Elmers is likewise very runny, even before thinning. hard to go on it where you want information technology.

    Second the coffee filter idea, over tissue paper. I besides used paper towel (Discovered it was 2 layers unexpectedly) once, as it is a hell of a lot stronger than tissue or toilet paper.

12. So my hot gluing a quarter over the pigsty is non adequate? :sigh:

13. Hey Folks...thanks muchly for all the replies. It appears a flexible glue and paper is the way to go. Simply one last question? I play a Les Paul into sometime Marshalls and Celestion speakers, then should I utilize unbleached filters for that more organic sound or go for bleached ones to cover more modern heavier tones....
    Thanks in advance...Anthony (Rick's bro-in-law)

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14. 
    Admittedly! But have you considered the college acoustic values of a real silver dollar?

15. Yep, it certain does and it is stronger than the paper information technology is adhered to.

    Why would you want a repaired speaker cone to have whatsoever flex any?

16. Yep, a used dryer sheet and cloth glue . It'south quick, easy, and the kids love it.

    Plus, some brands requite that extra-special smell to the speaker.

17. 

    wank Moks past popular demand

    Depends on the cone, I guess. Paper cones are non breakable and strong. They flex. This is role of the characteristic of the sound, and is taken into account when they built the speaker.
    The carbon fiber HPM-100 cones are breakable. They also practise not sound the same every bit the paper cones. Only I suppose they'd be better to not take flex afterward I repaired them.
    My Infinitys are polypropylene - I'm guessing they have a little flex to them too.

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18. For a speaker to reproduce in a linear mode, the cones must stay in piston throughout their operating range and not turn into Count Flopula. Paper is used considering it is both stiff & light.

    Don't become confused by a cone flexing when you button on it from the side and equate that to flex during performance. When the voice-roll pushes forward from the centered position, the cone is rigid.

19. 

    wank Moks by popular need

    I'm non. But in order to maintain uniform functioning, the repaired spot should retain the aforementioned characteristics as unrepaired spots. With Elmer's, the area of the repair volition flex far less than the unrepaired areas (when manipulated outside operating conditions).
    But don't misinterpret the clarification of the glue as flexible - it's firm, merely non breakable. Endeavour taking four pieces of newspaper (ii inches square sounds like a skillful size) and glue them together over their entire surface. Let them dry out, and the next day attempt bending the results. I just accept to call up that a very rigid spot in an otherwise relatively flexible cone would exist prone to many bad things while under atmospheric condition that involve a lot of vibrating, and will stress the more flexible areas effectually it.
    But in the end, do what you think works best. I similar this method. You lot don't take to.

20. It isn't a question of liking information technology or not, no demand to personalize this. You are putting along an empirical theory on cone repair, equally am I. Trying to predict the bending strain characteristics of a repaired cone flaw is pushing it, don't you recollect?

    :scratch2:

    I would put forth that neither method is perfect and the all-time solution lies somewhere in between them.

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Speaker Cone Tore At Edge Repair?,

Source: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/paper-cone-repair-suggestions.63411/

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